Teyuna: La Ciudad perdita

Fresh and energized at the beginning of the trek

Brian stumbled across the Lost City while researching some of the top things to do in Colombia- or South America for that matter. You may have heard of Ankor Watt, Machu Picchu, or Cichen Itza- but nowhere was this place on the radar. And so we must go! We signed up for the tour and had the option of a 4 or 5 day trek, so we grabbed the 5 with the option of cutting it short if need be. 23 km each way? Yeahhh we've got this. We drove 3 hours east of Santa Marta down a glorious paved road often in view of the ocean and many a banana plantation. After a brief stop it was time to turn south and head into the Sierra Nevada mountains, where we weaved along a rough mud path for 40 minutes of bumpy, twisting, stomach-turning fun. So much for my motion-sickness bands! There we had lunch and got acquainted with our guide, Oscar, and some of the other members of the tour groups leaving at the same time. The mural on the wall with our camp stops, metres to be climbed in elevation could not fully prepare us for what was ahead.

Our first few days were tough to say the least- maybe more so for those of us not used to walking 20 km a day carrying bags full of mail ;) Over 30 degree heat and the sun beating down we were fully roasted that first afternoon- and each to follow. The first day we shared the trail with some motorbikes, but before long the path became impassable for wheels- only people and mules from here on in. Each night we stayed at camps that included rows of bunk beds each with it's own bug net, and some hammocks for the die-hard campers. With our lovely cook on sight we were well-fed, with plenty of rice, lentils, plantain, arepas, or eggs to go around. That first night we were able to swim beside a small waterfall into a little lagoon as dusk fell, a blissful cool-down after a roasty afternoon.

Our next day stretched on and on for what felt like forever. We were up at 5 am each day and on the trail by six, although it didn't take long before you were drenched in sweat. We climbed up ridges and down, through the mud, rocks, across rivers barefoot, and up steep slopes. We would break a few times a day for watermelon slices or oranges from vendors along the way, and stop for lunch at one of the the camps, sometimes with a short time enough for a quick swim in the river. There was plenty of wildlife along the trail too- flocks of parrots, trails of leaf-cutter ants, skinks, and many butterflies. I

Wiwa pueblo 

Most importantly to know, there are many indigenous peoples living in the Sierras, who made agreements to share their sacred city with tour groups so that we might learn from their way of life and hopefully make better choices back in ours. 

 Local Kogui and Wiwa passed by often on the trail. Dressed in simple white cotton, Kogui men often with mules, and Wiwa wearing white somebreros; women weaving mochilas from fique plant fibre as they walked barefoot carrying babies in a wee hammocks strong across their foreheads. The kids are some of the cutest you'll ever meet, and trailed closely behind their parents, sometimes asking for dulches, or candies as we passed by. We had a wonderful opportunity to listen to Herman, a local Kogui who shared information about his way of life, beliefs on reciprocity with the earth, and how the Indigenous here view themselves as Elder Brother, and non Indigenous as Little Brother- not in a condescending way, but in understanding and practice of how our society takes, takes, takes from Seneca (Mother Earth), without ceremony or giving back; how the imbalances in the earth today are a result of our actions, and are felt here in the Sierra, despite the locals best efforts to live in harmony with their natural world.

 The evening of day two we camped a kilometre from the Lost City- and had only a short trail to head down, across a river, and up 1000 stone steps to the site!  The Ciudad Perdita, or Teyuna, was built after 300 A.D, and was once the home of 1000-3000 people, with round stone terraces each representing a dwelling, often with family burial right below. After Spanish colonization, European disease spread through the Sierras, and the city was abandoned- only the be rediscovered by treasure hunters in the 1970s. The farmers had the site to themselves to raid burial sites and sell their goods on the black market for 3 years, until word got out and the government and archaeologists came in. When the indigenous communities returned, they agreed to the site being opened up to tourism for 11 months of the year (closed every September for ceremony and regeneration), but said no to further archaeological excavations here, or at any other sites.

The climb up was a steep one, but worth every sweaty, tired, sore step of the last three days. We explored the site for 3 hours, seeing the place of the ceremonies, the shaman's home near the top of the mountain (he lives here today with his family), and spectacular views of waterfalls and jungle all around.  Below we are at the top of the site, overlooking the largest terraces where ceremonies would have taken place- the largest for men, and a smaller for women.

There was no question there is a special aura about this place, surely a site to be revered and respected for the civilization that once called it home- and for all of those who continue to make their pilgrimages here today. A trek we'll never forget! 

We made it! Tayunda, Ciudad Perdita

 Another 2 days back, through the mud and grime, we were sore, tired, and oh so happy. :)

Palomino, we're coming for you!